Today was a truly blustery day, but mostly sunny, so perfect for exploring the Roseland (nothing to do with roses) peninsula northeast of Falmouth across the Fal river mouth. This is a beautiful area, criss-crossed with an extensive network of narrow country lanes (most of which we felt we traversed), leading to fishing villages and smugglers coves. These lanes were often lined with a profusion of wildflowers, including bluebells, seapinks, ragged robins, snowdrops, daisies, clowslips and cow parsley.
Our day’s journey started with a trip across the Fal River on the King Harry ferry, a “floating bridge” pulled across the river on submerged chains. For this short trip we paid an exorbitant £5.
Our first stop was the church of St Just, in a superb setting on the tree-lined slopes leading to the water. They have made the graveyards into formal gardens – very attractive.
Further up the coast we had lunch in Veryan in the New Inn pub. The landlord was easily able to upsell us naiive tourists more than we really wanted, but it was very good – tomato soup and smoked salmon.
Continuing along the coast we arrived at the northernmost point of the day, at Gorran Haven, a small fishing harbour. We watched seabirds plunging from heights into the water.
Around the headland was Vault Beach, dramatically situated at the bottom of grassy slopes. The “sand” here was very coarse – 3-4mm diameter.
We took a quick driving tour through Truro to pick up supplies before calling it a day. The high wind, fine scenery, and bright sun (we are red-faced) combined to make this an exhilarating day.